英文正文
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Fear. You know that piercing terror恐怖 in your heart that makes you feel like you're gasping for air? Kind of like I feel standing on this stage right now. That's what I felt when I saw this coming for me at Mavericks. That's a wave two stories high, 20 minutes south of where I live in San Francisco.
And while technically技术上 I could run off this stage right now, at the moment I snapped this picture, that wasn't an option[计] 选项. I was swimming with a 20-pound camera, sealed in a watertight housing房屋, strapped to my wrist with a Velcro leash, swim fins strapped to my ankles, dolphin kicking as fast as I could to try and escape the impact影响 zone, where the wave was about to detonate.
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