We're drawn in. Whatever I like, I buy. Hip(臀部) and these days eco-friendly, right? Every piece of clothing that we buy or wear contributes(捐献) massively to the pollution of our waters. Textile(纺织品) factories are still poisoning the planet's rivers. How can that be?
And how do those toxic(有毒的) substances end up in our food? A new branch of clothing chain Primark opens in the German city of Bonn. Bargain(交易) hunters are out in force. And so are the climate protesters. Live a better life without Primark, they chant. But there's no spoiling(损坏) the party atmosphere inside.
And shopping at Primark has its advantages. It's unbeatable( 无敌的) in terms of value for money. You get really nice things. Super cheap. The clothes are perfect for kindergarten. Doesn't matter if the children get into a mess.
So let's take the Primark principle(原理) to the extreme(极端). We offer these clothes to the public for free. But there is a price which gets paid here in our aquarium(水族馆), which in our experiment stands(站立) for the rivers in Asia. And this bottle of liquid represents the dyes(染) that run into the water untreated( 未治疗的). That's cool. So what do I have to do?
Pour this poison into the fish tank(坦克). No, they're living creatures(生物). I can't do that. No, the symbol suggested something poisonous. I don't want to pour that in with the fish. Should we take that for daddy?
Let's find(找到) out where the catch(捕捉) is. It's right here. OK, maybe not. Won't do it. Why not? Because they're animals.
They're living creatures. Maybe the same thing happens when clothes are manufactured(制造), but you don't see it. It's not like you're doing it yourself. All just panic mongering. The high street stores would no doubt see it that way. Times have changed.
They say the production of their clothing is now sustainable(可以忍受的), eco-friendly, and saves water. We want to know the truth. We begin with the Zieder family in the town of Metman in Western Germany. They're fairly typical shoppers. Benny and Vincent are into sports labels. Mum and Dad just want to be well dressed.
Well, for their daughters of fear, fashion is very important. We want to look at the process used to dye clothes. Did you know it takes an average of six litres([计量] 公升(米制容量单位)) of water and dye(染) to colour just one, long-sleeved top? Dye that is packed full of chemicals. That's bad. Plants and animals could dye.
It's really a lot when you think of the masses of clothes that are made and how much water that consumes and the waste water that results. But there's more waste water to come. The top still needs to be rinsed(嗽口). And that's just one item. What if they add up all their clothes? Each one weighs the contents of their closet( 壁橱).
Because in practice, the calculations(计算) are done in kilos. Every kilo requires 20 litres of water. So far I've got 30 kilos of clothing. But I don't wear many of these things. They're too small for me. But I think one day maybe I'll fit into them again.
Because things add up over the years, it's mum who has the most clothes. The family wardrobe weighs in at nearly 200 kilos. We'll round it up as some clothes are in storage(贮藏) and others are in the wash. Sophia calculates(计算) a total of 520 tubs(浴盆) of water and dye(染). And that's just one family. What happens to that waste water?
We pay a visit to Bangladesh, the world's second biggest textile producer after China(瓷器). Bangladesh is said to have significantly(意味深长地) modernized( 使现代化)) its production methods, but only after disaster struck(打). In April 2013, the Rana Plaza(广场) factory collapsed(倒塌), killing over 1100 people. Allegations(主张) surfaced that many factories cut corners on safety to satisfy(令人满意) international demand( 要求) for cheap clothes. Western companies who have the goods made here felt compelled(强迫) to take action. Many joined the ACT initiative(主动), committing only to work(使工作) with factories that meet standards on wages(工资), safety and the environment.
The Bangladesh Garment Association(协会) lists factories that meet the required standards. We visited one of them near the capital Dhaka. The Mattala factory produces clothes for brands such as CNA, H&M and Zara, all according(使一致) to strict( 严格的) environmental standards. The company tells us they made a major investment(投资). From our side, we need to give the effort to the next generation for the future. Ranjean Kumar Das shows us his modern water purification(净化) system.
Instead of pumping(用抽机抽) the wastewater from the dyeing process into the river, it's first purified. But has it paid off for the factory? This is very unfortunate( 不幸的). Yes, we are not getting any single penny add. This should be definitely from the buyer point of view, should add because this is a green factory. We invested a lot.
What do the company's customers have to say about it? CNA confirmed what we were told at Mattala. All investments must be calculated by the factories and reflected in the prices charged for the products. H&M refused to tell us what percentage of the costs it bears(承担) to ensure(保证) production standards here are environmentally(在环境方面地) friendly. Zara didn't reply at all. The Western brands make demands, but it's the factories in Bangladesh that bear the cost.
And is the system even working? We decide to take a closer look at the rivers in Dhaka. By the Dalashwari River, we meet Shaman(萨满教的道士) and his team, some of the last fishermen here. They tell us that the fish have long since disappeared from other rivers and that even here, there's very little left since the textile factories arrived. They say more than 4000 fishermen have been put out of work. Ten years ago, the water was good.
We had thousands of fish, but since the factories arrived, it's gone bad. No fish, no money and not enough to eat. Many people here have virtually(实际上) nothing. And it's not only the fishing industry that's taking a hit. We're on our way to see an environmental activist(积极分子) who explains more. Abdulmattin tells us that the repercussions of the pollution are huge.
Our people's lives depend on water, starting from the health to the harvest(收获) to the lands and the soil. The overall(全面的), the picture is the whole country, all the rivers, all the canals(运河) are having polluting materials there and making grossly healthy hazards(冒险) to the people. The fishermen want to show us the cause of the problem. Wastewater pipes from the textile factories. We see them everywhere, emptying straight into the river. The water looks dirty and gives off a strong chemical odor(气味).
We take samples at random([数] 随机的) locations, both on the Dallashwari and another river. We want to get the water tested for heavy metals and have the oxygen content checked. But we're not optimistic(乐观的). These bubbles coming to the surface are foul(违反规则地) smelling gases. Two weeks later, back in Germany, we have an appointment with the World Wide Fund(资金) for Nature. The test results confirm our suspicions( 怀疑).
The textile industry in Bangladesh is poisoning the rivers. The one river is completely dead and the other almost dead. In the case of the one sample, the values are a hundred times higher than what a river here in Europe would have.
